Vienna

"In Vienna there's ten pretty women ...,
There's a concert hall in Vienna where your mouth got a thousand reviews...,
I danced with you in Vienna...,"
                                                            Take this Waltz, Leonard Cohen
                       
Vienna has a storied past.  For the ~ 200 years of Habsburg rule it was the capital of an empire that had up to 50 million citizens.  Cue the churches and palaces.  Plus an amazing slice of European art.  The last 100 years of history have not been as kind as Austria now has a population of 8 million.
 That said there is still a lot of new infra-structure going in.  Multi- year project is rebuilding the main station so now all trains have alternative designations.  Fortunately our Pension is only one subway stop away from the Ostbahnhof - West Station.  In fact I could literally spit from our third story windows onto the space-age glass & stainless steel elevator that rises through the sidewalk.  This structure, one of several I have seen, is a serious commitment to accessibility for baby strollers, cyclists and folks using wheelchairs.  (Perhaps helps that our cross street is a major shopping area.)

Time for a palace.  I had discouraged Miriam from visiting royal estates up to now.  Wait for Vienna was my refrain.  Schloss Schonbunn, the summer palace for Empress Maria Teresa, (and the others....,) is huge with 1,400 + rooms and extensive gardens.  Imagine the French Monarchs excess at Versaille and add steroids!  Exotic wood parquet, Chinese wallpaper and silks serve as a backdrop for the paintings and gilt detailing.  

I have been here once before at age 19 during a youth hostel / cycling adventure with my brother.  In one small room, black lacquer walls, gilt and multiple portraits of the young Maria Teresa a deja-vue flash-back took me to 48 years ago.  Too much fun.

And now for something completely different - a visit to Hundertwasser Haus.  This apartment complex was built in the early 80s by the very imaginative architect / artist.  We inherited a Christmas plate by Hundertwasser and always found his work very intriguing.  The apartment building has a very organic feel to it, with lumps and curves everywhere.  Add primary colours à la Mondrian, with a touch of magic mushrooms.

New drink - sturm - is a new wine which is still fermenting.  Available only in Sept. & Oct.  It has a light refreshing taste, 4% alcohol with a cloudy white appearance - hence the name.  Add a good dose of Vitamins B1 and B2.  Fermentation is still working so needs caps that breath.  Different toast, "To enjoyment".   During the sturm season you are supposed to drink one glass for each year of your age.  Miriam is planning on one glass for each decade.

Here is the view from our Pension.

Got dressed up for the tourist music evening.  Snippets of Mozart and other classical music with the musicians in period dress in a quite amazing hall.  Cheapest tickets got us two balcony seats behind the orchestra.  Once the evening started we hopped a divider and sat in the 'Directors' chairs.  (For me dressed up means a tie with my 'Nipigon Nylons' & berkies.  Miriam, in contrast, looked quite elegant as her long winter underwear was under her summer dress.)

Snapshots:. There are alot of fashionably dressed women of all ages in Vienna.  Lots & lots!

Crossing the public life smoking barrier in the Tobacco Wars.  First occurred in Prague where many restaurants and bars might divide by floor - non-smokers in the basement.  Vienna facilities have a glass wall divider or nothing and the site is a cloudy stink-hole.

Joined the locals and tourists for Fancy Pastries.  Fragilite with hazelnut cream for Miriam; Scholate Bombe with espresso / whipped cream did me in.  I needed to return to our room to recover.

Weather is changing.  Below freezing forecast for Budapest on Monday with snow.  We do have gloves and multiple layers.  Stay tuned.