Wednesday, 7 November 2012

Barsov, Romania

Booked a 'sleeping car' room for the twelve hours overnight train to Barsov.  A contradiction of both comfort - pressed sheets, good pillow / foam mattress and discomfort.  The train motion doesn't automatically lull you to sleep while two mid-night pass-port checks break up the mood.  A bulge on the wall became a clamshell washing station;  hot/cold water, mirrors, lights, toothbrushes and washcloth washcloth.



Morning in Romania.  Brasov is a middling sized modern city of ~ 230,000 with a developed economy - helicopters or chocolate anyone?  A 13th century 'old town' complete with portions of the original town wall become the tourist reason to visit.  Naturally an old church plus towers, gates and scenic streets contribute to our pleasures.  Rope Street is just three feet wide - the smallest official street in Europe.  Lift your eyes up, way up at the end of Rope St. to Tampa Hill, the feature that defines the town.  The town's names spelled out in capital letters on the top - move over Hollywood.

Tampa Hill is 960 metres high.  It and surrounding other dramatic hills dissect the modern city.  (Southern Capathian Mountains). A cable car zooms up to the summit where a restaurant and extensive system of trails encourage a fall tramp through the woods.  Beech, maple (or similar,) linden/basswood and pines across the slopes.   Half the leaves down so a delightful, dappled, warm yellow light as we walked down the narrow path to the bottom.  Meanwhile young and mature locals lapped us on the switch-backs.


The old town with its red tile roofs and narrow streets.

 Of the'black

Bran Castle, both genuine castle/customs post and a picture postcard movie setting.  Not really 'Dracula's' castle although the man, himself, Vlad Tepes - the Impaled - did drop by for a visit as part of his blood-stained rule. Major trade route through central Europe, oh do you have 3.3%?.  Not designed for a siege so every big army invited in.


Drink
We have been ordering the 'house' white or red' for most meals.  Often delightfully surprised with local grapes producing flavourful whites and robust reds.  Austria and Hungary make good product vin ordinarie.  Here in Romania things are seriously kicked up one level.  Surprise in a glass more than once - in fact we expect it!  Splashed out in a wine store and did  Thunder Bay pricing for a white and rose.  Thank You & Too Fine are the comments.

'Brezel' are a fresh baked pretzel beyond pretzels.  Savory with poppy and sesame seed toppings or chocolate swirled within the soft, crusty circles - this transforms the meaning of the word pretzel.  We live a diminished life in T. Bay because we don't have brezels.
Once you have brezels in the hostel,then you need the braided sheep cheese, smoked and looking like a miniature braided pastry log this is fun way to market cheese.  Yes, it's good.

Overland travel options were starting to look a little too painful.  Nineteen hours straight through from   Bucharest. Romania to Istanbul.  Then there is the 3 AM Bulgaria border check - get out of the train!  Oh, and construction on the line so the last part of the trip is by bus.  Curiously the is no dinning car on the train.  Let's look at options B.  Give us wings.

Three hour train took us to Bucharest.  (Late two hours.). Generally not seen as a primo tourist destination, a young staff member at the Brasov hostel said, "Overnight - that's more than enough."  
ŸWhoee, the station taxi drivers are some thing else.  We knew a fair price but had multiple conversations with quite rude individual drivers who not interested in turning the meter on or using our fair price.  One suggested we walk and it would take us one hour.  Messing with us makes us grumpy.  Round the corner and a different cab - meter on for 9 lei.  We had offered 15 as a flat rate.  The taxi thieves said 25 and we heard real horror stories at the hotel.

Strolled to the old town - after we found the Express Airport bus stop - where bright lights, old, classic 1880s architecture and a gazillion bars and restaurants contributed to full bellies and changed mood.

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