Istanbul #2

Another day and other discoveries......,

First the sounds -. Our hostel, 1880's old house for a long ago Jewish family, has a small burial shine for a Islamic holy man right next door.  This small domed building has one minaret.  The loud speakers for the five daily 'Call to Prayer' are 60 ft / 20 meters level from our fourth floor windows.  Just moments ago, as I peck away on the tablet, the 6:30 pm Call rang out.  Gentle readers, it is startling on your first full day in town to learn the first Call is at 5:00 am!

Second sound - 9:05 am Nov. 10th sirens wailed and boat whistles blasted for one full minute to acknowledge the time of death of Kamal Ataturk, the founder of the modern Turkish state in 1922.  He was a promethian figure although, naturally, a flawed individual whose ideals still resonate.  (Built thousands of primary schools, reduced taxes on rural poor and pushed woman's equality.). Across the street is a small eye hospital.  I observed an attendant at the door standing still, cigarette at his side during the whole time of the sirens.  Only at the silence did he resume smoking.

Yesterday included a Roman era cistern.  Only recently rediscovered.  (How come the folks in one neighbourhood were drawing buckets of water through the floor?). This structure is a massive example of the practical 'can-do' construction ethos of the ancient Roman / Byzantine Emperors.  They re-purposed 360 + columns to create a giant underground chamber to supply the Palace and other buildings.  Complete with large carp swirling in the darkness.

The fancy street mention in the last post - Istiklal Caddesi - has drawn us back for further stroll around.  A single car, wooden tram makes a journey up and down the centre of the broad pedestrian walkway.  High end stores, galleries and the occasional embassy along with more practical or touristy shops line the route.  Side streets can lead to restaurants or just a route downhill to another neighbourhood.  Roughly in the middle of the avenue is a complex of lanes that alternate fancy fish restaurants with the actual fish merchants shops.  Choose from ~ 20 types of fresh fish and the restaurant will cook it for you.  Wander further down the lane and a traditional butcher shop offers sheep lungs and heads.  If you prefer not to cook it yourself, the shop opposite has these items hot and ready to go.  Add the characteristic whiff of roasting chestnuts / scorched chestnut shell and a crowd of thousands and you have  Istiklal.

Interior shots of Haiga Sophia.  Massive space which can swallow up the tourist hordes.