Istanbul

"We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto!"

Dorothy, 'Wizard of Oz'

East meets West is short-hand for describing the involving swirl of images and sounds that make up modern Istanbul / ancient Constantinople.  Visa for Canadians at the modern airport - 45€ each / $100 + for us both.

Ouch!

First imptressions:  Bustle defines the pace - everyone here is moving so don't stand still on the sidewalk to check a map.  Street crossing enters a new perspective as car drivers are sultans.  (Or psychopaths - First day Miriam & I had to leap in opposite directions as a truck accelerated at us.)

 Whole plane load of people wearing white passed us in the airport - (folks returning from their pilgrimage to Mecca?)  Modern trams, sleek and full of people, run down the middle of major arteries, including the long ride downtown.  Purchase a 'jeton', red plastic token, for 3 lira.

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The business in Istanbul is business.  Where better to see first hand than the Grand Bazaar.  This is the largest covered market in the world with 2000 + shops.  Inside the streets and lanes have neighbourhoods; leather, carpets sellers or sandals, etc., although not a strict division so there is a higglety-piggle of discoveries as you wander.  Rent on the main gold / jewellery street is up to $80,000 per year!

We did buy a simple hand-embroidered cushion cover with a pomegranate design.  Disappointed the shop owner as he spread fabulous silk and wool examples on the floor in front of us - "Oh, that cheap cotton one will match the living room." 

 

Out the back and round the corner, after you cross the limited remains of the Roman Hippodome - race track, is the 'Blue Mosque'.  This is an impressive building.  Unique for its six minarets and huge interior space supported on only four 'elephant foot' columns.  The mid afternoon call to prayer was echoing as we approached which meant a fifteen minutes pause before we could enter so the locals could complete their religious chore.  No bare legs for the men and head coverings necessary for the women while all removed and carried our shoes.  Plastic bags provided along with a blue wrap that became a scarf or a skirt as required.  Our guide gave an overview of Islam and the obligations of believers.

The interior is entirely open with no walls,  symbolizing the unity of the congregation, although women pray at the back, similar to Jewish and early Christian traditions.  

Please rotate your head sideways to see the dome.

Down the avenue of small parks Haiga Sophia, build 400 CE and still going strong.  Again a huge interior space with a soaring dome.  For a thousand years the largest Christian church.  Golden mosaics challenge the photographer due to their height and placement on curved surfaces.

Istanbul has three major divisions - Sultanahmet, the original town with the large Topkapi Palace complex, Blue Mosque / Haiga Sophia and Grand Bazaar among the sights.  Across the 'Golden Horn', a large bay, is Beyoglu and other neighbourhoods, a more recent old town that also has the long fancy shopping street and clubs that is crowded with young adults in the evenings.  Across the Bosphorus, on the Asian side are the recent suburbs, a massive new town.  Add a working harbour; cruise ships, freighter and an armada of ferrys.  Hey - there are 13 million people here so, of course, there are crowds and bustle.

We are in a hostel in Beyoglu just next to Galata Tower, a defensive work put up by the Genoese merchants in the 14th century.  Tower on the hill, the better to see pirates.  Hostel on the hill the better to have two red-faced travellers as we humped our bags up multiple stairways and narrow, steep cobblestone streets.  Final challenge, our room with a roof top terrace view, is 65 more steps.